Introducing RC Maker's NEW Weighted Tweak Wheel Set Pro for Touring Cars!

Featuring a more stylish updated design that also increases the usability, durability and accuracy of the tweak wheels! 

• Longer thumb nuts for easier attachment  
• New chamfered nuts tighten down to hex without shims
• Smaller range of motion once wheel lifts, for faster resetting
• One-piece weight/bulkhead design for increased rigidity and durability
• Premium dual colour lock in base for easy transport
• Our signature GeoCarbon styling 
• Stylish chamfered, black coated and laser engraved brass

No more getting down on your knees at your pit seeing which wheel picks up first, with our weighted tweak wheels, you can easily identify which wheel is lifting earlier! With offset weights, the tweak wheels will spin as soon as the earlier lifting corner comes off the ground, making it extremely easy to accurately identify what tweak adjustment needs to be made to de-tweak the car.

The set of Weighted Tweak wheels features ABEC 7 Bearings, Black 7075 Knurled thumb nuts and Black Coated and laser engraved bulkhead/weight!

The nuts are permanently installed in the bearings, which are permanently installed in the brass bulkhead. As a complete assembly, you will never lose anything, as each wheel, nut and bearing assembly is fixed together. 

The set is topped off by a dual colour 3D Pro Tweak Wheel Stand, which keeps them together on your pit bench and in your pit bag!

These work great on both EP and GP 1/10th Touring Cars with a standard 4mm axle.

Directions for successfully de-tweaking your chassis

1. It's very important to ensure your chassis is flat, and droop is set prior to doing this process!
2. Rotate the wheels on the opposite end of the car you're checking, so the flat base is in contact with your setup board.
   
3. Ensure the weighted tweak wheels on the end you're working on are parallel to the ground, with the logo horizontal.
4. Press down on both ends of the car to settle the suspension and then lift the "spinning" end up slowly until one of the wheels starts to rotate, note which wheel it was.
5. The wheel that came off early is the side that the collar needs to be unscrewed towards the top of the shock body on the other end of the car. Adjust half a turn, and do the opposite direction to the other side by half a turn also. E.g. If the front left lifts early, unscrew the rear left collar half a turn, and tighten the rear right collar half a turn.
6. Repeat the process until you have both wheels spinning at very close to the same time. 
7. To do the other end, simply rotate the car 180 degrees, rotate the wheels that were fixed back to spinning, and the previously spinning back to fixed, and repeat above steps!